I have a shifting problem with my Honda Rincon. It will run and move in 1st and reverse only. If you run it in automatic the minute it tries to shift to second it feels like you have shifted into reverse or something wheels lock or slide and the engine stalls. You can sit still and shift through all gears in ESP mode but anything above idle in any gear except low and it starts to move then locks up.
This question is quite complicated in a troubleshooting point of view and similar to the transmission we are talking about.
The Honda Automatic transmissions use fluid and force along with twin solenoids as well as a torque converter like a car to move through the gearing changes and there have been many times when debris or diluted fluid water has caused trouble. Things like old oil, debris or water in the oil and low oil cause tremendous issues here. Check that stuff first! So I think the very first thing to ask is just how good are your mechanical abilities and how deep is your toolbox? This will determine how far you can get with my answer before you will need more professional help or a Honda dealer mechanic to finish the job.
Please do not kid yourself into thinking you can do this if there is any doubt, as the results could be catastrophic to your ride. Keep in mind that these suggestions are performed at your own risk and we assume no responsibility for your personal skills.
If you have not changed the oil in some time then this is a great start to the health of your Honda. If the oil looks creamy like good coffee or burnt black and smelly then perhaps drain just the oil.
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Then add clean oil back into the motor and let it run five minutes or maybe even ten then change just the oil again. Be sure to change the oil filter lastly as well and make sure the correct amount of oil is added back into the engine as this does matter! After this is completed, try the shifting and see if it changed anything. If not, keep reading! On the Passenger side of the engine of your Rincon you will find the oil line pressure port hiding behind an 8mm bolt up front, but on the right side.
This will tell you if the fluid is moving well through the engine. Be sure to warm the engine first for at least a few minutes so the oil reading is not extremely high due to cold thick oil.
Be sure the engine is in neutral and the selector lever in the center position. At 80 degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit you should have around psi of pressure. If the oil pressure does not reach this setting then you likely have an issue relative to these items: Oil pump, Oil filter, Oil strainer, Oil level or the transmission torque converter. The remaining suggestions are something that really should be handled by a dealer technician, as it does get tricky from here.
There are several o-rings inside the engine cover behind the transmission valve body. This is a semi-complicated operation, as this opens up the entire engine just like open-heart surgery. These seals are known as the joint pipe seals and oil orifice seals. These can cause weak pressure and shifting trouble will result if any of these are worn or if any debris is in the oil. Some have also found luck in removing the valve body from the front engine cover and discovered water or debris inside.
These are all suggestions and should be taken with a bit of caution.I have a Yamaha Raptor I cleaned the carb and all the passages with cleaner and forced air, replaced jets, fuel needles, seats, o rings, and fuel screws. Clip on needle is set in middle slot factory settings. I also have a new plug and air filter.
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It starts and idles fine, but if I put it in gear to throttle up, it dies. If I try to rev it a little, it backfires out the exhaust and dies. But if these machines are left to sit in the garage waiting on their perspective owners, they will age quickly.
The fuel in any ATV these days is like cancer when it is sitting idle for too long and spreads a vicious film of varnish as well. Fuel breaks down and just like you might have found in the fine ports of the Raptor carburetor, it causes lots of issues with how the machine runs.
The fuel petcock itself can also become so gummed up that it might be tough to turn the fuel on and when it is on it only allows a very small stream of fuel to flow in.
We all know the Raptor requires lots of fuel to run properly and by the way you have described it to me it sounds like the engine could be starving for fuel. One way to check on the fuel flow is to simply prepare a bowl or something to catch fuel in and turn the fuel petcock to the off position. You will then remove the fuel line off the carburetor and point it into the bowl or container to catch the fuel that may run out of the end of the fuel line.
Allow this fuel to run out for a few seconds to properly judge the speed that it is escaping. It needs to flow freely to be able to continuously fill the carburetor bowl. If the fuel is not flowing properly then you may need to rebuild or replace the fuel petcock and then run the test again.
When removing the petcock from the tank you may find varnish has covered the fine mesh screens on the fuel petcock stems and you will most likely need to replace the petcock anyway. Cleaning these fine screens can be tricky and on a ATV you will most likely crack or even destroy these screens, unintentionally causing unsafe conditions for trashy fuel getting into the carb. Even the internal gating in the fuel petcock can accumulate varnish from ethanol fuel, which ruins gaskets inside and slows fuel flow.
Then I would look into the main fuel needle and seat to make sure it is allowing the fuel in easily. This can be done with the fuel line attached by removing the bowl and allowing fuel to flow, stopping it by simply raising the floats gently to test its function.
And finally, if the fuel system checks out, there have been issues with the parking brake electronics and some have removed the parking brake rev limiting wires, but you will have to do this at your own risk.
I do not suspect this to be your issue, though. Story by Rick Sosebee. Get ATV. Like ATV. Email a friend Comment. Why does my engine quit when I put it in gear?
Thank you for your time. First and foremost I want to thank you for the excellent description of what was going on just before the unfortunate breakage. I rarely get that detail or truth for that matter. The first thing I would do is to jack the Honda up in the rear and stabilize the machine so it does not fall on you or any unsuspecting onlookers in the shop.
The rear driveline may be a touch difficult to see from the side, but you want the Foreman to be in gear and gently try spinning the rear wheels. It does not matter which side, as this solid axle machine will turn both. The Pinion shaft is a piece of steel comes out of the front of the rear differential that turns the ring gear in the rear differential. This could have broken internally and you will not be able to see it, but when spinning the rear wheels make sure the pinion shaft is turning.
If it is then move on up the shaft towards the engine. This can give way under heavy load if it is worn or has suffered abuse. You will want to check this next. Now I will tell you that the prop shaft connection to the pinion joint could be hidden inside the swing arm tube and out of sight, but this kind of break should be easily identifiable.
From here you need to check the yoke joint, which looks like a common steering knuckle joint. Good luck on this one. Unfortunately, you need to be ready to break out the wallet as this could get a little expensive.
Story by Rick Sosebee. Get ATV. Like ATV. Email a friend Comment. Hi Brandon, First and foremost I want to thank you for the excellent description of what was going on just before the unfortunate breakage.Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly.
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This guide will tell you how to troubleshoot the This guide is made to help you troubleshoot the most common ATV winch issues.
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You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience. Necessary Always Enabled. Non-necessary Non-necessary.Typical components that may need to be addressed to fix this are:. To test this, all you need to do is to put the ATV in neutral Nleave the parking brake off and try to push forward or backward it by hand.
Some of the larger ATVs can be a bit heavy to push, even for an adult, but on a flat smooth surface like asphalt or concrete, you should be able to make it move. If the wheels spin freely, you know that the driveline and brakes are fine and that the problem is with your gearbox, transmission or gear shifting mechanism. You may jump straight down to troubleshooting transmission issues.
If you cannot get the wheels to turn no matter how hard you push, the problem may still be with your transmission or gear shifter. Wheel bearings may seize up completely if you let them wear too far before having them replaced. On solid rear axle racing quads, you should also inspect the carrier bearing as they may break and lock up. The most common scenario for broken axles is your front axle popping when struggling in a mud hole at full throttle and the tire suddenly finds traction.
An axle may strip if it pops out of place. The C-clip that holds it in place may come loose so that the axle starts moving out until just a small portion is still gripping and the splines stip. You will likely hear scraping noises if the axle has stripped. When a driveshaft or axle break your bike will no longer pull on the wheel that the stripped or broken axle goes to.
The remaining wheels will likely still pull as normal. The drive belt on CVT transmissions may break due to old age, wear or misuse. An old belt that is pushed hard may explode in an instant, leaving the bike stranded. If your bike stopped moving instantly, you should remove the belt cover to inspect the belt. You may find your belt in a thousand pieces or just worn so bad that it is slipping. The drive belt housing is sealed and should normally protect the drive belt from splashing water.
But if the cover fasteners are not properly tightened or if the seal is not in place it may not be sealing properly. And if you have been riding in really deep water it may enter the belt housing through the belt housing vents. If you suspect that water in the belt housing is your cause there is a drain plug at the bottom that will drain any water that has entered. After you have gotten all of the water out the bike should start moving again.
Go gentle for the first few miles so that the belt and clutches are able to dry completely before applying too much throttle or the belt will just slip, causing premature wear. In addition to loose bolts and a seal that has popped out of its place, you should look for damage to the casing itself.ELECTRIC SHIFT ISSUES FIXED ON ALL HONDA ATVS !! No more problems ever !
It is not unusual that the cover gets damaged by hitting rocks or branches. See if you can hear or feel if the gears inside the transmission are shifting when you put the AVT in gear. The gear shift indicator may indicate that the bike is in gear even if the internals have not shifted completely. If the shifter feels loose or not to be shifting all the way it may need adjusting. Try setting the bike in gear with a bit more firm motion than normal.
Do not use excessive force, you are only trying to find out if it needs a bit of convincing to pop into gear. If this helps you will likely be able to fix your issue by adjusting the gear linkage. Also, make sure none of the visible components in the gear shifting mechanism have come loose or are broken. Some ATVs use a plastic clip that sometimes pops off. And where the shifter rods connect to the transmission, you will find a bell crank that is well known to strip or crack.
If all of the externals seem fine but you are still not able to make the ATV shift completely, you may have a bent or broken shift fork, broken drive chain or stipped pinion inside the transmission.
If one of the clutches are not working properly, they may not engage to move your ATV forward. Listen if you hear any abnormal or weird noises from the belt housing area while in gear and applying throttle.If your car doesn't move when you put it into gear, it may be due to a simple oversight or you may have a serious transmission problem.
The source of the probelm may depend on whether your car has an automatic or manual transmission. You can check for a few causes yourself, but you may need to have your car towed to a mechanic to determine the source of the problem. Ensure your car is turned on. This may seem obvious, but some cars run so quietly that you may think the car is on when it really isn't.
Ensure you have disengaged the parking brake. The parking brake can prevent the car from moving even when it is in gear. Ensure that the shifter is fully engaged in gear if it is a manual transmission. Sometimes the clutch pedal is not sufficiently depressed to allow the shifter to go completely in gear. Try pushing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and attempt to put the shifter into gear, then try giving it gas.
Also, remember that after you put the shifter into gear, the clutch pedal must be disengaged to place the car into gear. Try starting from a different gear.
Try all gears, including reverse. This helps determine if a single gear is causing a problem or if it's the entire transmission. Check your transmission fluid if it is an automatic transmission.
Your car's owner's manual will detail where the transmission fluid dipstick is located. You should engage your parking brake, leave it in Park and turn the car on.
Then check the transmission fluid by pulling out the dipstick, wiping it with a clean cloth, then reinserting the dipstick. When you remove the dipstick again, check the level, color and smell of the fluid. If the fluid level is low, try adding some more fluid to bring it within the "Cold" or "Hot" zones, depending on the heat of the engine.
If the fluid is dark brown or black, or smells burnt, you may have a serious transmission problem. Have your car towed to a certified auto technician.Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
Hi I have a arctic cat auto. Any ideas as to what to to check for? I would go with a clutch problem. It is very unlikely that it is broken gears. Your friendly neighbourhood Journeyman mechanic. Agreed, if the belt sheaves are grabbing and moving the belt properly, then the next possible problem is definately the drive clutch.
I would tear down to the clutch and check the clutch shoe and the small one way clutch that is between the clutch housing and clutch shoe.
Make sure all moving parts are moving freely and check for excessive wear on any clutch components. One question, have you tried putting the machine into 4wd and seeing of the front drive system will move the quad?
Ok,Thanks for the replies. It will not move in fwd or 2wd. Will tear down and check the clutch this weekend. Thanks again. I was driving my four wheeler and it just stopped going in the middle of the road it just sits there running but when I go to move forward it just makes like a chugging sound and stays put I changed the spark plug and cleaned the carb What eles should I do What make, year and model is then machine?
Sounds like a belt issue to me though. You can post now and register later.
Why Won’t My ATV Shift Past First Gear?
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